The name “Hoe Cake” comes from the practice of cooking the batter on the blade of a farming hoe and also from the 17th century term “hoe,” referring to a type of cooking griddle.

This simple cake has sweet corn flavor and a layer of jammy, bright Thomcord grapes. Cook the grapes first so their juices thicken enough to sit atop the cake rather than disappearing into the batter.

This in-between time of year in Southern California can be both wonderful and confounding. If you’ve ever spent any time outside of SoCal, September usually means the chance to pull on a sweater and ...

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